It's Friday morning and my landlord's driver, Hossein, is taking me to the department of motor vehicles in his white Vespa, slaloming between cars in the freeway. I'm seating in the back tense and immobile so as not to disrupt the balance. We have a mission: registering the motorbike and getting new plates. Can it … Continue reading Beirut: Chaos,Greek Gods, 260 Kms