Anfeh

July 27, 2020

I landed in Beirut on Thursday afternoon after an ordinary 4 hours flight  from Paris.   Upon arrival at the airport I had a PCR test.  They told me that if I didn’t hear back from them in two days it meant the results were negative.  I haven’t heard back from them. 

I am still trying to adapt to life here.  I think that for Natalia having me back is also, somewhat, unsettling.  Yesterday her, a friend and I came to Anfeh, a small town by the sea north of Beirut and south of Tripoli.  They drove Natalia´s car on the freeway, I rode my bike through the sea-side road. A pleasant, low-speed, ride.  

The town doesn’t have much to show for, except two small, secluded bays surrounded by white, blue, and ocre houses partially built on the rocks, among them a few bars and restaurants.   We spent all day at O Chalet, a restaurant & bar that has been operating for three generations. It is a place on a low hanging cliff, giving direct access to the sea.  There is no beach but you can either dive or use one of several ladders to go swimming.   We spent our time alternating between floating in the sea over gentle swells, lounging under the sun, reading, and sipping Prosseco and white wine.    

After a nap and before sunset we walked to the end of one  of the peninsulas that makes the bay and sat with a bottle of cava to see a red sun fall slowly and disappear under the water. Natalia told us stories about the crusaders that one day invaded these lands.

For dinner, fresh raw fish with a green salad and a bottle of St Emilion that Natalia´s friend had brought.  A night cap at the terrace of our bed and breakfast.  A good night of sleep.        

Today it will be more of the same.    

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